Cape Horn

We all have heard of the Cape Horn..It is the stuff of legend, at least in my family..We arrived in a stiff wind and strong Swell but right, and I mean right under the lighthouse We found a nice lee and water flat enough to anchor. We got our little Tender ashore with some guests and crew. The walk was steep up the stairs to the Lighthouse, the Monument and the Chilean Naval station. There is a Chilean family of 5 that live out here all the time. Nice place to go to school but very remote…

Cape Horn did not disappoint. And an hour later the wind filled again and we had to move on up to Puerto Williams.

Photo by Mark Colville

Cape Horn and the Drake

So the trip across..What to say. It was certainly as rough as our trip down, more wind and bigger seas but on the beam. So 2 reefs in the Main and the Staysail and we averaged 11kts. Winds to the mid 40’s made it seem all too real.. The 7.0m and 25’ seas were fairly daunting but the Albatross flying around kept our attention. The trip over took about 60 hours as we were trying to time our arrival at the Horn between two lows. Somehow We made the target.

Shackleton Whisky for that Special occasion..

A gift from Catherine’s Father..(one of our Stewardess’s) for a special occasion. and this was it. 3 Birthdays all on the 20th January and a crossing of the Antarctic Circle. Happy Birthday, Catherine, Richard and Dr Paul..

The cake was a Panetone with Passion Fruit Icecream inside and a Dark Chocolate Glaze…Awsome..

Photos by Raya

Polar Plunge at Midnight

Before Departure ..The crew went mad and all decided to jump in the water before we left Antarctica. It was midnight, the water temp was -5c or 32.5f.. but they went in, Twice!! Not me though. I just watched.

Antarctic Circle

South 200nm to the Antarctic Circle 66.30.666 s and 68.00.00w

We departed at Midnight and into a fair sea state. A bit rolly and swoopy due to no wind to offset the sea state but we cruised south through the night and the next day and arrived finally at the Antarctic Circle timed at 1900. Just in time for a celebration with some Shackleton Whisky (google it) Champagne and a toast for a great achievement.. Dinner South of the Antarctic circle followed.. before we High tailed it Northward towards Cape Horn 680nm away.

Cathedral Ice

We left Paradise Bay for the Melchoirs where we wanted to prep the boat for the trip 200nm South to the Antarctic Circle. The trip over to the Melchoirs was not bad for ice but as we approached the entrance we found this most beautiful Ice berg stuck in the channel. We had to creep around it in the shallows to get in. The spire was much taller than out 60m , 200’ masts.. and without the masts Rosehearty would have fit through the hole..

Photo by Raya Hutchison

Paradise Bay

We moved Rosehearty from Port Lockroy to cruise over in Paradise Bay. Only 20nm away but with ice all around and heavy snow the going was tough. Eventually the sky cleared and we entered the Bay and what a wonderland. Ice floes, big and small. Dramatic scenery as a back drop, and just us ohh yes.. and some other inhabitants

We found a group of seals and Penguins hanging out on a floe and nudged Rosehearty up to it and they, the inhabitants could not have cared less..

Photo by Raya Hutchison

Zandaam

Even the Cruise ships come down here and there are many of them..

Small and Medium.. this is one of the bigger ones and they do not like navigating here in the ice any more than we do!! We are all fragile when faced with big ice.

Uma's titties

Yes that is what these rock Mountains on the NE end of Lemaire channel are called

Port Lockroy to Lemaire

Port Lockroy to the Kodak Gap or Lemaire Channel

Well we knew the weather was not going to be terrific and we also already knew we could not transit the Straits. However we had to go and at least look. So we went South East and joined the queue behind a Russian Ice class ship and had the Zandaam a cruise ship fall in behind us. We got to the entrance of the straits our Russian friend pushed on through the Zaandam and we turned around. However what we saw in the weather breaks was magnificent.

Roshearty With Ice please.

Actually it looks worse from the bridge than it does up here. But this is about max for us.

Photo by Richard Smith

Port Lockroy to Palmer Station

Palmer Station is the only Northern peninsula Base that is US operated. It is the real deal. All year round and real science. We all loved the experience, and the trip there and back to Lockroy was a real challenge through ice but we did get it done. After the visit to the Station we had a great trip ashore and saw Sooo…many Penguins..

Photo by Raya Hutchison

To Port Lockroy.

From the Melchoirs We headed back down Neuymayer Channel to Port Lockroy. We had a visit here to the old British Base. However 1st we went on a tender tour to another bay and a good walk ashore with Penguins, and Seals and lots of Snow

There are a few of these old bases around.. mostly decaying. However here We got a nice walking tour, and better yet into the gift shop. Where yes they do take credit cards..

See Ya all later.!

Going back to the Family..

Mr Humpback...

In Wilhelmena Bay we had a terrific experience with a Humpback family. While Mom and baby Napped on the Surface, Dad we think, came over and gave us a show..Literally right under and around the boat for 15 minutes. Then just at the end he Spy Hopped to check us out face to face...and then satisfied he had done a good job with his Audience he dove away..

Camping Anyone.?

We decided to make sure We were familiar with the Tent set up of which We have 4 and fit everyone to there sleeping bags etc. Better to do now than in the wind and with Mittens on. These new Tents from Northface take 10 minutes to get together including the waterproof fly sheet. The plan to camp ashore for a night..

Trinity to Melchoir via Wilhelmena Bay

The trip down to Wilhelmena Bay had some Icebergs and brashy bits and some whales in the distance, probably Humpbacks. We wound our way through the increasing floes and found a nice flat one for one of our guests to plant the St Francis yacht club flag on.

You are Kidding.!!

We were up early as usual and headed out through Neptunes Bellows...Great Name... and we had traffic to contend with both in and out!!. The pass is narrow maybe 100m but you can not see underwater..and add to the fact there was a large Iceberg floating around outside in the Fairway it made for an interesting departure.. However, We set off South for Trinity Island. The wind was fair so...Oh no the sails were Frozen to there stays and we could not get them to come out. That has never happened!! The snow and freezing rain had turned them in to blocks of ice..So we proceeded under faithful Staysail and 1 motor. We arrived to Mickelsen Harbour and with the bridge team, Markus on the depth and Brian on the Radar we slipped in to anchor. The whole area we are in notes as unsurveyed..So there was a keen appreciation for paying attention to the depth under the boat..

On arrival We set off kayaking to an Island about .75nm away where there were Gentoo Penguins and Weddell Seals.., A good walk around in snow shoes...Another great Day..

And at the end of the Day Who has a view out of the Bridge windows like this..

Seconds out...for the Main round...

We picked up our new group in Frei Airport. King George Island..as usual the flight in was weather delayed. If it is not down here in Antarctica then the problem is up in Punta Arenas. But finally we were all together, and with 650kg of provisions loaded on board we were ready.. After a safety brief we moved over to Potter, Yes I know 1 more time… and got ready to head on early for Deception Island. A Bit bouncy on the way out but we soon bore away for Deception.. As our local experts tell us South and West is better for weather. We arrived around 1500 . Then Tenders away out to the Penguin Colony at Baileys Head then back to Whalers Bay for a nice walk ashore. Then, finally at the end of the day 2200 at night the sun came out!!

Potter Again

Well the weather did indeed catch up. Right on the forecast from Commanders Weather service. The Winds at 0600 went from N at 15kts to East at 25kts with snow. It has got progressively worse over the last 24 hours while we have been here tucked up in Potter Cove off the Argentine base of Carlini. We have company also. A Chilean Navy vessel 300 meters behind and an Argentine navy Vessel 150m ahead. Nice to see them working together..We took the unusual step of putting down 2 anchors last night with 140m of chain out on each anchor to slow the swing down. We had 35kts with higher gusts but we could not tell how much after a while as our wind gear 60m up the mast.. Froze solid… We had a lot of ice in the rigging and Hard hats are needed to be worn on deck due to falling ice. Snow laid on the deck about 5mm or 1/4” Definately different for us. We did get Guests ashore yesterday to visit the Carlini base where they are doing real research rather than just occupying and being a presence. The highlight is several Humpback whales that swing by rubbing along the hull every so often. They are fantastic to watch, mind you there breath is a bit smelly!!