This Should be an angel... but it is not..it is a .Christmas Devil
We decorated the tree on board and the crew mess the night before last. Then we downloaded a fire to play on the TV. Looks good Heh!
We have been anchored out for a few days now. First it was in the 30’s and they closed the port. Then yesterday it got to the 40’s and we could not get off the boat.. Today it is in the 40’s with gusts in to the 50’s. Really not nice. We have 140m of chain out and are sailing around at anchor. All on a moments notice in case we drag. When the wind is blowing it is like sailing on board. We heel over about 12 degrees…the chain straightens. We tack and heel over the other way…Repeat every minute or so.. but at least the sun finally came out..
After several hours of naviagting our way through the channels of Patagonia, we approached the White Pass. A tight wiggled pass peppered with little Islands, rocks and all sorts of hazards. With every season of the year compressed into a few hours, the conditions were very variable. We were seeing 43Knots of wind funneling down the mountains but it felt like more on the water. All crew gathered in silence on the flybridge as 100% concentration was needed by Captain Hutch and our local pilot guide Marcello.
The video is on ourRosehearty Facebook page
talking about sleeping..We came in after our White Narrows transfer..(that is called White due to the color of your knuckles) To anchor. by now it was blowing 25kts + again and we found a lee just South in between the 2 narrows, the other being Kirke.. It was choppy and gusts were up in the high 30's but the anchor held. Next morning, Monday..We headed over to an island called Focus where the conditions were more sheltered for us.. finally, Yesterday, Tuesday we came on the dock. We refueled, Re-provisioned and did a few required jobs on board. Some of the crew got a stroll and dinner ashore..
Photo by Raya Hutchison
Well the photo says it all. There she sits all year long..
Photo by Humble Thomas.
Timing they say.. Well after extensive discussions and checking We decided to leave Eden for Natales. a 220nm Run. We departed 2100 before it was dark to allow us out through the Harbour entrance and in to the Narrows. Down 1 Canal after another. Finally to Union and up to White Narrows Past amazing waterfalls, incredible topography, tight passages. It was a very long night for the watch keepers and our Pilot Marcello Sanchez. The weather was as good as it could be. We were trying to get in before the next weather system so had to leave before the last one cleared out..
Puerto Eden Fishing
This is the local industry for the 150 folk that live here, well those that do not work for the Government.
However these boats have seen better days..
Photo by Catherine Carr..
We are now holed up in Puerto Eden on Thursday the 14th December. It is not nice outside for sure. in Here we have 25kts to 35kts and occasionally more. Happy to be here. Crew got ashore for a little bit..Just to stave of Cabin Fever! We hope to proceed tomorrow evening Saturday. 15th December
Very tight through here. English narrows..We are not allowed through at night and slack water is preferred. With Marcello our Chilean Pilot, of course we hit it right on target.
It was a nice little interlude there at Tempanos. Richie got the drone up and took this great shot..
We then proceeded South down the channels past English Narrows on the way to Puerto Eden. We needed to hide from the next big Storm…
We spent the evening behind a small island ..Bahia Tribune… outside the protection it was 25kts to 30kts and yet we were sitting pretty with gusts to 20kts and a flat water. At 0600 we up anchored and headed on out to Seno Iceberg and a Glacier called Tempanos…We arrived there at 0900 and spent an hour before heading South again through English Narrows to Puerto Eden 1 way traffic through there... Patagonia is known for Storms and especially this SW coast. and we are due for a big one tomorrow with gusts to 60 its if we continued..so prudence says hang tight and wait for a better option. So we are now safely tucked up in Puerto Eden, which is not quite Eden…. But very pretty. There are 150 people live here. engaged in fishing mainly and everyone seems very happy.
and back in we come. It was a dark night lots of showers but with the staysail out we charged South. racing the wind change after the Frontal passage. We had 90nm to go before we could bear away off the lee shore and We did not feel like hanging out 4 miles offshore. So 13 knots it was on the dial. Inside, especially forwards it was a bit of a rough ride until we got the to PT Raper where we finally got to head off from the wind and seas.
Dawn comes early here right now..about 4.30 and Sun up at 0530 and right on the nose was the entrance to Canal Messier. We checked in with the Chilean navy on san Pedro Island and we motored South down Messier...
Well that little stretch lived up to its reputation and this was a good weather window,!! We left in pre frontal conditions, serious rain and some gusty winds to 30 its. We motored out through Canal Pullche with the tide just starting to come in. (this to ease the sea state as if it was tide against wind it would have been rougher) We puttered along at 5-6 its in to 30kts and gusts to 40 with lighter winds in the heavy rain squalls. we passed South in Bahia Pink. The Weather front passed and as we got further offshore the seas came down to 15’ or 4m!! And then looking back at the coast A Rainbow.
Raya's favorite provisioning spot. you need to see how fresh the fish in this area. On Saturdays there is a big produce market and we got most our fresh produce from there.
1500 we boarded our Harbour pilot. Just at the same time our Wind increased to 20 knots on the side! We can off and headed out the channel. At low tide you can wade across it! but we had a 6m tide and left with no Issues. We proceed South inside the Patagonian north channels although with no Moon there was little to see. we are planing to go out back in to the ocean for 160nm headed rather unfortunately SW where most the weather comes from before heading on down to Puerto Eden
We do have to thank the tireless work of our agent over the last Month well done Tomas Miranda of SAYSS and Gonzalo THE driver
Before Stuffing. what a great meal We had. thank you Raya.
Standing L-R Hugo,Ethan,Markus,Tomas,Williams,Markie.Lenka
Seated L-R Raya,David,Renee,Richard,Catherine..
Photo by Richard Smith
We are still in Pt Montt. alongside at Marina Oxxean. We have the last week been working on our statutory surveys. ABS and Isle of Man. both intermediate Hull and annual surveys. Happy to say we passed. So we were indeed thankful yesterday. It now leaves us time to focus on the trip South. initially to Puerto Natales about 900nm south of here down the Patagonian channels. We will hope to spend Christmas there before leaving for another 900nm trip down to King George Island in Antarctica, crossing Drake Passage, Of course the timing of that will be critical due to weather.
A mix of everything here at the marina. Even Seals under the dock..a football Stadium for 15,000 people
Alongside in Marina Oxxean
We were Sooo lucky. Friday was a holiday and the pilots and customs and Immigration did not want to be working so at 2100 on arrival we had the Pilot board and bring us in to the dock. As it was dark we did not see much but it was a very tight little channel the pilot brought us through and it was high tide in to the bargain. We need the tide with our 4m draught. We were alongside and cleared through formalities in an hour..How good was that. We will be here now for a few weeks prepping for the trip south
Photo by Mark "Jailbreak" Colville